In her introduction, Adler writes that "parsley, cilantro, mint, toasted bread crumbs, toasted nuts, fried shallots, or any other green leaf or bit of toasted seed cheers up anything leftover or plain via a combination of distraction and magnetism," (xvi). Photo from Pixabay
“The Everlasting Meal Cookbook Leftovers A-Z”
Tamar Adler. 2023. New York, NY. Schribner. [ISBN: 1476799660. 537 pages including index. US $35.00. (hardcover.)]
In my kitchen, nothing ever goes to waste. If we have pasta for dinner, I save the water to poach eggs the next day. If I saute vegetables and have a few tablespoons left, instead of eating them or throwing them away, I use them the next day on top of something for lunch or dinner. A used up bottle of salad dressing gets the treatment of a little pickle juice,water or wine, complimentary herbs and it lives its best life on noodles or ramen.
It turns out that what I thought was pathological frugality on my part is actually uptown. For Mother’s Day this year, I was presented with a copy of “The Everlasting Meal Cookbook Leftovers A-Z'' by Tamar Adler. And it’s everything I have done plus a lot more, all neatly bound in a 6.13 x 1.7 x 9.13 inches book.
In her introduction, Adler begins by explaining that her passion is the leftovers: those dregs of food that were not eaten and had been a part of something better, which often go to waste. Her intention is to show readers the potential in leftover food, even with small amounts so that you are beginning your next meal with the one you just finished.
Her introduction sets the mood for her book with her sensual descriptions. She writes about engaging the senses, how she listens “for eggs clattering around in a pot, and water burning off sauteing greens when they go from a light hiccup to a hard fry” and explains that the sounds work as well as a timer. She writes about how smell can help a cook figure out if something is good, without having to know the expiration date.
She acknowledges that sometimes she might seem “eccentric” adding “how many suggestions does one really need for leftover aillade?”
The reader gets to choose from what they have, she just provides the recipes and ideas. By recipes, she clarifies that she gives specifics, but these are leftovers, so the reader can make adjustments accordingly.
Adler’s website describes her as a “former professional cook. She is an author, a podcaster, a contributing editor at Vogue Magazine, and a mother.”
Is she more cook or more writer? My opinion is that she is equally and abundantly gifted in both.
The book is laid out in chapters starting off with an introduction and conversions, and then goes into chapters starting with “How to Eat Well” for vegetables, progressing through different categories of food (dairy and eggs, seafood, meat and tofu, soups, etc) up to “How to take Your Medicine” (sweets) and “How to give Thanks” (empty containers) There are plenty of literary and artistic nods, as every chapter starts with an illustration by Caitlin Winner and a literary quote from various sources that pertains to the topic at hand.
Any cook might be overwhelmed by all the tips, ideas and lifehacks, but take it step by step. The index of “The Everlasting Meal” could be the most used part of the book because it is so easy to have something on hand, look it up in the index, and find your inspiration.
My favorite recipe so far is her idea of making “Eggs Benedict Spaghetti'' with leftover (you guessed it) Eggs Benedict. The pasta water can be added to the hollandaise and is also used to warm any leftover eggs. My personal tip is that if you don’t have enough eggs already poached, this moment, after the pasta is removed, is also a good time to poach fresh eggs.
The book is part cookbook and part philosophy of cooking and living. While one can tell that Adler’s palate is high end, this doesn’t make her leftovers seem “better than anybody else’s.” She is sharing possibilities with her readers of all pantries.
I like anticipating the next day’s meal as I am cleaning up the kitchen after dinner. The only problem with the book is that my copy is hardcover, which is hard to keep flat.
In these times of inflation, the ideas in this book will be used. “The Everlasting Meal” deserves space on every kitchen shelf.
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