The Northern Light

Media Credit: Hannah Guillaume - The Northern Light Bryan Roerick, Teeka Ballas and Tim Stevens sip on a pot of tea in front of Raven Glacier at the summit of Crow Pass. Earlier, the group hiked to the top of the glacier to ice climb through its crevasses. Crow Pass Trail runs 23 miles from Eagle River to [Click to enlarge]

Hiking the Chugach Mountain Range via the thoroughfare of Crow Pass Trail near Girdwood was our way of paying homage to recent UAA graduate Rich Stromberg, hiker extraordinaire and former author of The Northern Light's hiking guide NtraiLs.

It was also a way to introduce our flatland-Texas friends to great Alaska bounties, so we drove out to Girdwood and parked the dusty old Chevrolet Blazer at Crow Creek trail head. There we strapped 45-pound packs to our backs and disappeared below the tree line into Chugach National Forest.

"I came out here to see some mountains," said Tim Stevens from Austin, Texas. "These are definitely mountains."

Crow Pass Trail, also known as the Historic Iditarod Trail, runs through a series of snow-swept mountains, offers either an overnight hike to Crow Pass or a two-day plus traverse to Eagle River.

The first mile of the trail is congested with birch stands, alder, devil's club and other low-lying vegetation, which eclipses the mountain and gives sneak peeks of glacier-fed waterfalls.

About every 1,000 feet of elevation climbed, we seemingly entered a different ecosystem. One area opened into delicate white, lavender and midnight-blue alpine flowers, whereas others were riddled with quartz rock that made the hiking feel like we were dancing on wet, soapy plates.

Once past the initial ecosystem of greenery, the trail became a 45-degree incline of steady switchbacks, comprised of mine debris and jagged shards of rock. Here the sky opened up to offer a full panoramic view of the valley we had just ascended.

On that particular day, we were immersed in 75-degree temperatures with clear skies. Fortunately, most of our group had prepared for an alternation of that weather, on the advice of near-Sourdough Bryan Roerick, group-nominated guide for the excursion.

Roerick, who had gone the length of Crow Pass Trail from Eagle River to Girdwood last season, guided us up through the Mine Trail instead of the Cabin Trail when the path split. We took the direct ascent in order to make our base camp at the foot of Raven Glacier before evening temperatures set in.

The two trails merge together again at a forestry cabin, which the public can rent for overnight stays - though it is suggested that reservations be made at least 180 days in advance. The cabin sits at 3,500 feet beside Crystal Lake, a pristine body of glacial water, high above tree line.

Just before we reached the cabin, clouds rushed in from the east, and with a crash of thunder, they let loose a steady downpour of rain and hail.

Those adequately prepared strapped on their rain gear, and those who weren't, didn't. Together we wound our way through hills covered in forget-me-nots, moss campions, lichens and friged arnicas as the skies cleared again.

"I can just see Julie Andrews popping over a hill," said John-Paxton Gremillion, also from Austin. "This is probably the first alpine hiking I've ever done. I feel like I'm in 'The Sound of Music.'"

Though both Stevens and Gremillion hadn't anticipated having to fully partake in Roerick's mountain obsessions, Gremillion found himself being belayed by Roerick into the mint-blue glacial crevasses and getting a nose-first look at the belly of old ice.

Gremillion and Roerick returned to base camp around midnight, with their crampons and ropes in tow. Roerick's face was one of glee and success, whereas Gremillion's told a different story.

"I don't know about doing that again," Gremillion said. "Tight places aren't really my thing. Maybe if I had more experience."

Shortly after their return, we shared some hot tea, then climbed into our tents and curled up in our sleeping bags, while the wind blew hard rain against our Neoprene shelters.

The following morning we awoke buried in low-lying clouds and 30-degree temperatures. Morning was the turning point for the hiking troupe, which split into two groups.

Roerick led Gremillion and Stevens onward for three more days and 19 additional miles to Eagle River. We descended the four miles back down to the starting point with an added 50-pounds of abandoned climbing gear.

With grunts and complaints of being underprivileged Sherpas, we chose the Cabin Trail for our descent; it offers a more gradual decline and is less populated than the Mine Trail.

We made several precarious waterfall and snow crossings and navigated our way down the narrow-gauged trail positioned halfway up the side of steep avalanche-riddled mountains.

Once below tree line again, we marched like sore, swollen tin-soldiers, but made it back to the comforts of our jalopy, the trusty old Chevrolet Blazer, without stopping for air or water.

Although we were sorry to miss the full 23 miles of Crow Pass Trail, we were glad to dry out our blistered feet and rest our weary heads in nice, warm beds.

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